|  How to shine & protect your finish
 The Wash: I'm a big believer in washing by hand. The car wash down the street 
              destroyed the finish on my 4th gen - there were scratches and nicks 
              all over the place from the high pressure water powering contaminants 
              across the finish. A good hand wash is safer, produces better results, 
              and best of all: cheaper! 
              Fill bucket with soapy water. Use around 1 fl. oz. of soap per 
                gallon of water.Wet the entire car with the hose. Just let the water flow gently 
                out of the hose - no high pressure water necessary.Using a genuine wool mitt or real sea sponge soaked in soapy 
                water, wash the car one section at a time. Start at the top and 
                work your way down. Do NOT use circular motions - this can cause 
                swirls. Instead, use front to back motions. This way, if a contaminant 
                does somehow get stuck under the mitt or sponge, it won't create 
                a circular scratch which would be visible from every angle.Rinse with the hose. Just allow the water to sheet over the 
                paint. Dry with quality microfiber towel or Absorber DETAILING GEAR:   I've collected quite a tub of junk, but here are my favorites: Wax/Polish: Klasse All-in-One and Pinnacle Paste Glaze - Klasse goes on so effortlessly 
              it's amazing. A small foam applicator with a small amount of water 
              is all you need. And there's no need to wait for it to dry to a 
              haze, so you can immediately remove it after application. Also, 
              it doesn't stain your seals like other cheap waxes and since it's 
              acrylic, you can apply it to all sorts of surfaces for extra protection 
              (rubber seals, plastics, etc. And the best part: it lasts for 6 
              months!
 Glass:Eagle 20/20 - This is an ammonia free glass cleaner, so it's tint 
              safe. Steer clear of any glass cleaner with ammonia - it's harsh 
              and will quickly discolor tint. This does a great job removing the 
              chemical haze so common on newer vehicles that's caused by the chemicals 
              in interior plastics slowly evaporating and leaving a hazy mess 
              on the inside of the windows. By the way, this is a great reason 
              to leave your windows open when possible.
 Metal:Mothers Mag & Wheel Polish - This stuff is magic for exhaust 
              pipes and interior metals like the chromed Maxima branded sills 
              on the titanium edition Maximas. It's easy to work with and really 
              restores the factory shine.
 Tires:Platinum Tire Gel with Eagle One wipes - Not too shiny or greasy 
              looking. Just right. Easy to apply with the Eagle One wipes. And 
              it's nice that it doesn't brown your tires like the cheap junk from 
              Armor All.
 Towels:Green Microfiber - These come in handy all around the house. I even 
              use them to clean my TV glass. Okay, back to cars - Microfiber is 
              great for removing wax and applying various glass, plastic, and 
              leather treatment products.
 Drying:California Water Blade and Absorber - I've had my $8 Absorber towel 
              from Wal-Mart for over 2 years and it has yet to show its age! This 
              thing is a steal for 8 bucks and is super absorbant, soft, and easy 
              to glide across the paint. I can't say enough about this little 
              gem.
 The Water Blade is also useful to knock off large swaths of water 
              first, but I find it far more useful on larger, boxier vehicles 
              like SUVs. The Maxima is a little too small and curvy for this to 
              be that helpful. Exterior Plastic (headlights/taillights, 
              etc.:Mothers Mag & Wheel Polish (yes, that's right!) followed by 
              Plexus. It sounds strange, but the wheel polish really does a great 
              job removing fine scratches from plastics. And Plexus is like polish 
              and protectant for plastic. It leaves a glassy smooth finish and 
              makes plastic so clear it's near invisible.
 Leather & interior plastics: 303 is simply the only game in town worth considering. If you've 
              been using Armor All, you've simply gotta try this. 303 offers far 
              more UV protection, lasts longer, and offers a matte finish. Who 
              wants a greasy looking dash?!
 Clay Bar:Many people think waxing is the most important part of the detail. 
              Nope, preparation using a clay bar has a far greater impact on the 
              results. Run your fingertips across your paint and you'll feel tiny 
              contaminants in it that make the surface rough. This is what robs 
              your finish of shine and can even lead to small rust spots. Clay 
              Magic is my favorite clay bar since it's soft and easy to work with 
              and reasonably priced. It can be a little difficult to find, but 
              it's worth the hunt. Mothers clay bar is much harder to work with.
 Touch up with Langka:I purchased Langka from www.langka.com. 
              It's a great product for removing the "blob" of paint 
              that's left when you use factory touch up paint. When used properly 
              the results are nearly invisible!
 Here are a few shots after: 
              Wash like aboveClay Magic Klasse AIOPinnacle Paste Glaz Platinum Tire GelMothers Mag Wheel Polish 
  
 
  
    
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